Embracing the Gringa

As I cautiously made my way through the muddy streets of Olmos, I realized something had changed within me. With each careful step I took, I noticed the eyes staring, curious as to how I would navigate the trenches of mud and slippery mounds. Not only could I feel the gawking, I heard their conversations. … More Embracing the Gringa

Carnaval Bernal

Bright colors. Loud music. Gallons of water. Even more baby powder. Carnaval. Or at least, that’s how they do Carnaval at my friend’s site in Bernal, Piura. Like Mardi Gras, Carnaval is celebrated in the days leading up to lent (though, unlike Mardi Gras some of them continue a few days past Ash Wednesday). I … More Carnaval Bernal

Feliz Navidad

I spent most of the month of December reminding myself that it was in fact December and Christmas was around the corner. I played Christmas music while sweating and imagining decorations around me. Slowly but surely, the decorations began to appear. Unlike in the States, people don’t start decorating right after Thanksgiving (though the stores … More Feliz Navidad

Sick Day

Three weeks ago, I went on a late afternoon/early evening walk with 3 neighbors and my 5-year-old host niece. We crossed the Old Pan Am Highway and walked through fields of mango, maracuya, banana, and a variety of other produce. The chacras seemed to stretch on for miles and the site of green everything was … More Sick Day